THE SURF DIARIES: Daily Entries of A Surfer Girl

PHOTOS BY ANTONIO RUSSO “MR-YETI”

Surfer, Theresa Longo – Follow Photographer @MRyeti76 on Twitter

January 2015 the fins hit my leg while surfing Playa Santa Teresa. SEE THE SWEET PHOTO AT THE BOTTOM OF THIS POST 🙂 I couldn’t surf for 5 weeks and the contusions didn’t fully heal a year after! I surf a lot since then. After a wipe out like that it’s possible to have nagging thoughts in the back of my mind on some waves. I decided to take notes after surf sessions!

JAN 18 2016 – Low tide 3pm – High Tide 9:51 PM

Paddled out at 4:30PM. At the point where my confidence is back! (Mostly) 🙂 I paddle into small waves and quickly land a wave as well as another right. And a left. 3 solid waves things are good! One after another for twenty minutes. I was on fire at the start of this session then sat idle for 15 minutes. I must build paddle strength (especially on off days) as I chased down 4 waves after my initial hot start and didn’t get them. Decent wipeout on a wave a few feet over my head, I dropped in, stood up, but crouched but dropped on butt on the board, so I skidded, feet forward – in this wipe out I went totally relaxed, I slide in the wave with the board underneath even though I was sitting down. When the wave gave me a big push I “let the board go” ahead of me with the wave. I know where I need to be on the wave as it breaks and have awareness of the points of my body on the board when going for the wave. When the wave is coming I stay low, check for direction and paddle hard!!!

Theresa’s Surf board is from @LostinSanta Surf Shop! #LostInSanta Surf Shop rocks!

Jan 23 – FULL MOON SURF SESSION – I had one memorable wave today a churning left front side. – I SAW THE BARREL. I looked into it but freaked and didn’t crouch and go inside. I tell myself I will be ready for the barrel next time it happens. 🙂

Jan 24 – Good, fast waves. Sliced my foot on the fins today. It will be a gross gash. Thumbs down to a foot cut when you are barefoot and walking through sand/saltwater a lot. Luckily my sandal straps just miss the nick in my foot. 2 big lefts for me today and a huge wall of water over my head.

JAN 25 – Nice waves! Caught multiple waves today. Feeling fine! Dropped in backside right on “Full Moon Party” Neon shirt pro surfer but he let me off easy with a smile! Party wave!
I told him sorry after we were back in the lineup and he said “It was a great wave,”. Totes feeling proud I caught a wave with one of the good guys in the line up. 😀

JAN 26 – Lefts, rights, easy paddle ins. Getting better but have moments of fear on big waves. I must trust the board. I DO trust the board but when I see a huge drop a part of me stalls at times. When I get in the right place and commit… it works! 🙂 Rode a few long waves all the way in. Someone told me today I am getting “pro”. 🙂 They told me they like my style. Cool. Go me. The salt water hurts my fin cuts but I get over it quickly. I ride a left and surging right wave. Couple wipe outs today. I live in the moment while a wipe out is happening; aware of my body and the board. I try to relax and let the board go. I am always aware of who is around me and what I will do in the situation. I scan 360 when approaching a wave and look both ways before dropping in. Super control in the water!

JAN 28 & 30 – Sunny days, lots of waves! Lefts, rights … fun easy waves. Super easy paddle outs. I don’t struggle. Go for the channel!! Every day gets easier to catch waves.

Surfers and I were talking about “What is the song in your head when you walk to the beach? Or when you are in the water?” A lot of times it changes daily. I always find myself singing or whistling different songs while out on the board. Comment below: What is your surf theme SONG? #SURFANTHEM Mine is whatever reggae song of the day gets stuck in my head or usually “Danger Zone” -Kenny Loggins . COMMENT YOUR SURF ANTHEM BELOW 😉

Surfer Theresa Longo photographed by Antonio Russo “Mr. Yeti”

Jan 31 *Mom’s Birthday* This session is for her! 🙂 I catch a lot of waves now and still have strength. My injured foot knocked the board on a wave exit and feels a little bruised on top. Some minor mistakes when tired, like I didn’t have enough speed for a wave and flipped on it. (It was after I caught 3 non stop waves: ‘catch one, paddle back immediately and catch another’ type thing) I rested for a few moments and caught more waves. With any extreme sport it is important to know when to stop for a rest before a mistake is made.

Feb 1 – The last couple sessions I notice I am paddling pack out and catching waves at least 3 times each session. Today this morning beautiful sunny day, glassy 2ft-3 ft waves beautiful sets and I paddled out front of the Pizzeria and caught 3 lefts. I LOVE LEFTS. I said to the blonde next to me that we are in a good spot – she agreed and said she was learning – she caught a couple there too!! Stoked. I stayed out for about 50 minutes in the morning and went back @ 4.